As reported on  PhysOrg The George Institute for Global Health has recently analysed some 23 studies conducted since 1975 to the present day on the effectiveness of motorcycle training in reducing accidents  & published their findings in The Cochrane Library. The analysis showed that there is NO clear evidence worldwide for what type of mototcycle rider training is effective in reducing accidents.

Findings include that pre license training acts as a barrier to riders obtaining their licence, whilst post licence training provided no evidence on reducing accidents. In essence the level of factual evidence rather than conjecture used in order to assess how effective rider training is was so poor that they were unable to ascertain what type of training (if any) is best.

What all the studies seem to have neglected to factor into the equation is the fact that all riders are individuals. How come there are riders who have been riding for over 20 years with no training without having had an accident whilst there are riders who get killed within a year of undergoing training?

Simple really, it’s a question of the riders psyche. The risk averse versus the risk prone. Those who are risk averse will naturally ride slower, more defensively and more cautiously. Those who are risk prone will be the opposite – they will ride faster, more aggressively and tend to throw caution to the wind.

In my opinion what is missing from the study is whether or not training will improve your skills – in other words make you a more competent rider, not whether  training will make you less prone to having an accident. If you as a rider are willing to take the risk of overtaking a vehicle on a blind rise whilst travelling at twice the vehicles speed no amount of training will stop this. It is a risk factor, one you have evaluated & elected to ignore the inherent risks involved. Education through training will have taught you that this is dangerous, and could result in an accident (in fact common sense should tell you this), however if your personal risk profile is such that you ignore this then no amount of training of any sort will teach you not to do this. Likewise no amount of training will prevent the accident.

I am a strong advocate of training, continual training, with regular refresher courses & advise my students to do the same. However I often find students attending courses because “it’s the right thing to do” – peer pressure has coerced them into undergoing training, far more so than a genuine willingness to improve their skills. Yes, these people do learn things on the course, however within a week they are back to their old habits again & 99% of the training is forgotten. These are the sort of people who will never practice what they have been trained to do, simply because their risk profile is such that they see no merit in doing so, they will continue to ride recklessly and will eventually have an accident.

What’s even more ludicrous is the term “accidents” – this implies the event was unpredictable and unavoidable. Yet in reality the truth is that many are not accidents, they are events caused by poor risk assessment. How many times have we all been hanging around with a bunch of mates who ride & the general tone of the conversation is how close one rider came to an “accident” – invariably it is always the same couple of riders who are the topic of discussion, & when the “accident” invariably occurs the remainder of the riders all agree it was simply a matter of time. In other words they could see it coming. As traumatic as this is when it involves injury or even death the simple fact is that no amount of training will have prevented these, as safety is a state of mind, not a level of training achieved.

As riders we need zero analysis or studies conducted to be aware of the fact that from a safety perspective we are at a disadvantage when compared to cars, and no amount of training or skills improvement will change this. It is simple fact. To this end I will continue to advocate training as a method of skills improvement, for when training is applied to an individual who is in the lower risk profile bracket there will be a commensurate amount of safety increased through greater awareness by the rider and an improvement in defensive riding skills.

Take care and be safe whilst on your bikes.

Think!!!

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A post seen on the Think Bike Forum. One I feel is valid & very appropriate at this time of the year.

Every year we gather at memorial runs to remember our friends and family members who have passed before us. It is God’s will.

But, it is NOT God’s will if we knowingly taunt our own mortality. We love speed, we love the feeling of the open road – but let it be the open road where we do not endanger others or ourselves.

We love a beer or two or three or more – but let us do it in an environment where we know we will be safe.

Let us all be the guardian angel of the other.

Let us not point fingers but use that hand with the pointing finger to grab and hold on to those who stray from reality. It is our responsibility, yours and mine! Educate our youngsters and let them know the dangers we face every day on our bikes.

Warn them about the cars that surround us. Educate them on the use of the all powerfull right hand on the throttle!

In a year, which is probably the worst we have seen in many years, we have lost too many of our fellow riders!

YOU must be the wind of change

One person cannot change a community’s behaviour or attitude – but one person, you and I, can make a difference – one person, one day at a time – and with time, we can make so many more people aware.

You can be the person who tomorrow can lays his hand on the shoulder of a friend and ask him or her to either sleep over or get a lift home – you can be the person who takes a walk around a friends bike and check the chain, or if the tire is worn, or to check if a nut is loose – SPEAK!!

You are the one who can speak to the motorist – wife, son, daughter, mother or father – and ask them to please use their indicators – or to wait those extra few seconds at an intersection. Many motorists misjudge the speed of an oncoming motorcycle.

You can be the one who speaks to the neighbour’s daughter or son on a scooter, those with shorts and takkies or mini-skirt – tell them what a roastie feels like – tell the father or mother what their child will look like if not dressed properly

Ask your friend to be more carefull with the girl on the back – fasten the helmet – wear the gloves and ride carefully – she is someone’s daughter or sister!

Speak to your child – and be the example – YOU make the decision – make the decision to just think!

You don’t have to be a public speaker, a politician or a millionaire to help a friend or family member to be safe – just care about them!

Help Think Bike to get the message out there – SPEAK WHEN IT IS NECESSARY AND BE THAT FRIEND!!

Slow Speed Skills

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Motorcycle riding rewards the rider who improves their skills at controlling the bike, primarily through greater safety and increased enjoyment of riding,

The greater your skills the greater the fun, but how to improve your skills?

The old saying – “First you get good, then you get fast” is applicable. This is the correct order to acquire skills, yet very few riders attain their skills in this order.

Motorcycles cannot balance by themselves, so low speed balance and steering require constant focus and effort on behalf of the rider. As speed increases the gyroscopic action of the wheels make the motorcycle more stable, and therefore easier to balance and steer.

Most new riders & even some “experienced” riders avoid going slow because it’s hard work to acquire these skills. For the same reason most riders are unable to execute a U-turn, they simply have never learned to balance the motorcycle at low speeds.

If you can’t ride in a straight line at a slow walking pace then find a parking lot and start practicing. Like yesterday!

Keep your eyes up, look straight ahead and practice slipping the clutch smoothly to start slowly moving forward. When moving keep the clutch disengaged, adding small throttle inputs only when the bike is losing its stability.

When you can ride straight lines at low speed, start to work on a slalom around traffic cones (if you don’t have any they can be bought cheaply at most stores like Makro or Sportsmans Warehouse), otherwise use empty two litre cold drink bottles, making the gaps between them smaller as you progress – ideally down to around two bike lengths apart. The “trick” to this is to always look two cones ahead of you, this allows you to plan ahead & ensures your vision & focus remains forward.

Then move to large circles – in both directions, slowly decreasing the radius of the circles to about 6 meters in diameter (the width of the average single lane road), with an emphasis on a smooth path of travel. Remember to keep your head turned in the direction you wish to travel, not focused on the cones you are trying to avoid!

In both the above instances a steady throttle should be used, opening & closing of the throttle will cause the bike to become unsettled, throwing it off balance. Use the rear brake to modulate speed, rather than the front brake as this causes the motorcycle to dip, once again unsettling and unbalancing the bike.

When you are able to do these exercises whilst retaining perfect control without losing your balance or steering direction, you’ll feel more confident with slow speed traffic jams & maneuvering.

Good luck & remember – ALWAYS have fun whilst learning new skills!

Simple rule – our bodies are “non-adjustable”, but bikes are adjustable!

What do I mean by this?

You cannot alter the length of your arms, nor can you alter the length of your legs.

You cannot alter your height when seated on the bike – your torso cannot “grow”!

You cannot alter the size of your hands, nor the reach of your fingers.

Your ankle can only flex so much, after that it becomes uncomfortable, thereafter it gets rather painful!

So, upon purchasing a bike one of the most important things to do is to adjust the bike’s controls to suit your body.

Handlebars: Adjust to suit your reach, the bars can be tilted toward or away from you – the most common complaint is that the bars are too far away. When seated your elbows should be slightly bent at a forty five degree angle, this gives you maximum comfort & good leverage for counter steering.

Levers (brake and clutch): These should be adjusted to suit the span of your fingers – for commuting & general town riding it’s always preferable to have one or two fingers over each lever for quicker reaction time in the event of an emergency. Also, the levers should be positioned up or down so the extension of your hand to reach them is natural – no lifting the wrist upwards to get to the levers.

Gear lever: Again, this should be adjusted up or down to allow your boot to fit comfortably underneath the lever & to ensure no excessive raising of the leg to get over the lever when changing down a gear. Different boots require different adjustment of the lever, for example touring boots versus race boots or motocross boots (on a dual purpose bike).

Brake pedal: This should be adjusted so the movement of your foot from having the ball of your foot on the footpeg to the ball of your foot on the brake pedal is a fluid and straight movement. When riding in traffic and “covering” the rear brake your foot should be comfortable and at a 90 degree angle to your leg, any more than that and you will have to physically hold your foot in an unnatural position which gets tiring and can even become painful after a while.

Ensuring the bike is correctly set up for your physical dimensions is a vital part of a safe and comfortable riding experience. By making the adjustments mentioned above you can ensure that longer distances and commuting are far more pleasurable and ultimately a safer journey.

Motorcycle training falls into 5 distinct levels, each one reliant on the other to bring about a competent riding experience.

Motorcycle Checks

This is the most overlooked factor. Checking the bike before each ride requires diligence on the part of the rider. Most people simple cannot be bothered to do so, yet it is these checks that bring peace of mind to the rider as well as ensuring all safety critical items are functional. In all too many cases riders have arrived for training with badly adjusted chains, incorrect tyre pressure, rear lights or indicators not working. Think through the ramifications of these so called minor items:

Incorrect tyre pressure = poor handling, = an unsafe bike.

Badly adjusted chains: too tight = lack of suspension travel = poor handling = unsafe bike, too loose = snatchy throttle = poor handling = unsafe bike.

Lights/Indicators not working = other road users are unable to see your intentions = unsafe bike.

Safety Gear (ATGATT)

In SA it is illegal to ride without a helmet. Yet just last week there were news reports of an accident where neither rider nor pillion was wearing a helmet. Rider died at the scene of the accident, pillion in critical condition. Safety gear is paramount to your own personal safety. Helmets excluded, the gear will not necessarily save your life, however it will in all likelihood prevent nasty road rash and having to have road dirt scrubbed out of open wounds. I use a simple analogy to show people the usefulness of proper gear – lie down on the road in your jeans & T-shirt & let me drag you along the road for 5 metres. Inevitably the answer is “NO WAY”. Obviously, because it will hurt! Yet these same people are happy to risk sliding down the road at 120km/h plus? I advise all trainees to research the relevant TUV & CE standards & to then make informed choices about safety gear rather than to rely on “a friend said brand x was the best”.

I’ve also found that a trainee with safety gear is more able to focus on their riding & learning as the constant fear in the back of their minds about falling injuries is diminished.

Basic Motorcycle Operation

This relates to gears, indicators brakes, throttle etc. Sounds easy? It is, mostly. Yet it’s still important to ensure these are done correctly all the time, every time. Riders need to know how to emergency stop. Riders need to know to be in the right gear for the current situation. Many riders experience the brief locking of the rear wheel when changing down a gear, caused by releasing the clutch too quickly. This often causes newer riders to panic, therefore matching engine speed to wheel speed by blipping the throttle is an important skill to learn.

Riding Techniques & Crash avoidance

Countersteering. How many times have we all heard that phrase? Yet very few riders actively countersteer. This is one of the most vital techniques a rider can learn, however as with all techniques it needs to be practiced before it becomes habit. Likewise the oft stated “look where you want to go”. Sounds easy, yet this is also a skill that needs to be correctly taught & applied until it becomes habit.

Roadcraft

On road scanning & strategies. This is probably the most neglected skill by riders of all ages and experience levels. Yet it is the most important skill to master. Once the 4 skill levels mentioned previously have been mastered most riders believe they are now skilled and adept at riding a motorcycle. Unfortunately accident statistics prove otherwise.

Placement within the rider’s lane to maximize their line of sight through corners, reading the road surface to spot any changes such as gravel, sand or diesel spills. Scanning ahead to spot potential hazards and applying the SIPDE principle – Scan for the hazard, Identify the hazard, Predict what the hazard may do (car may turn in front of you, dog may run across the road etc.), Decide on a course of action & lastly Execute your decision (slow down, move around the hazard etc.)

Each of these skills is interdependent on one another – you cannot master Roadcraft is you have not accomplished Basic Motorcycle Operation, Riding techniques & accident avoidance may well be compromised if your motorcycle is in poor condition due to the fact that you have not mastered the Motorcycle Checks. It may be argued that Safety Gear is up to each individual to decide for themselves, however those riding with little or no gear tend to have a far greater sense of bravado, which often leads to reckless riding as there is little or no awareness of personal injury. This in turn often leads to accidents due to the greater recklessness.

Decided that it was time for a few smiles, spring “officially” arrives next week on 1 September, so why not a have a few quotes to smile about!

If something won’t open, force it. If it breaks, it needed fixing anyway.

No use getting older if you are not getting wiser at the same time.

A lesson is only a lesson learned if you remember it next time round.

Reality: The illusion brought upon by the lack of alcohol.

Never underestimate the stopping power of a tree.

When I want your opinion, I’ll remove the duct tape.

Show me a sane man and I will cure him for you.

You know you’re gonna have a bad day when your Rice Crispies sound like this:
“Sh1t – Crackle – Fok!!!”

Indecision is the key to flexibility.

The early bird gets the worm – but it’s the early worm that gets caught!

There is no shortcut to experience.

Reality, Life and Now happen between remembering the past and dreaming of the future.

Stupidity

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German theologist Dietrich Bonhoeffer once famously said the following about stupidity:

“Stupidity is a more dangerous foe of good than evil is.  It is possible to protest against evil, to expose evil, and at times it can be prevented by force.  Evil always carries in itself the germ of a substitute for it, in that it leaves behind at least a feeling of uneasiness in people.  Against stupidity we are defenseless.  Neither protests nor force can accomplish anything here; reasons are of no avail; facts that contradict one’s own prejudices simply do not need to be believed . . . and if they are unavoidable, they can simply be shoved aside as insignificant, isolalted cases.  In this the stupid person, in contrast to an evil one, is completely satisfied with himself.

The fact that a stupid person is often stubborn should not deceive anyone into thinking he is independent.  In conversation with him it is felt that you are not dealing with the person himself, but with cliches, slogans, etc. that have gained dominance over him.  He is under a spell, he is blinded, he is misused, mishandled in his own being.  Thus having become a will-less instrument the stupid person becomes capable of all evil, and at the same time incapable of recognizing it as evil.”

I Thought this was brilliant. Yet sadly it makes me think of many of the people I have met who treat skills training with disdain, as they are competent enough even though they have never had any training in riding a motorcycle.

Here are ten “quick tips” for all bikers. Why ten? Out of the ten most people will only remember three or four……..

  1. Always assume that you are invisible to cars & trucks.
  2. The bottle & throttle do not mix.
  3. Be cautious of the throttle when riding on cold tyres.
  4. Never ride more than 10% to 20% faster than the general traffic flow.
  5. Always ride well within your own capabilities.
  6. Listen to your “Inner Voice”.
  7. Do not ride when you are angry or upset.
  8. Keep your bike in good running order & do not abuse it.
  9. Ride with a smile on your face & in your attitude.
  10. Wish for a safe journey to your destination & be thankful for a safe ride upon arrival.

1. There are a lot more cars and trucks than motorcycles on the road, and most drivers don’t “recognize” a motorcycle; their brain recognition patterns often ignore it (usually unintentionally). This is also largely due to the K53 licence test – vehicle drivers are not taught to look for motorcyclists. Therefore never assume a motorist has seen you at an intersection. Always keep an eye open for escape routes and adjust your speed accordingly.

2. Because your bike is much smaller than a car or truck you may well appear further away from the vehicle than you actually are. This is a common visual/spatial error made by motorists stopped at an intersection waiting to turn left or right. Be aware of this, as the vehicle may turn even though they have seen you.

3. Again, because of its small size your motorcycle can be easily hidden in a car’s blind spots or even hidden by objects or backgrounds outside a car (trees, bushes, fences etc). As such be cogniscent of the fact that although the driver of the car or truck may have checked their mirrors or the intersection they may not have seen you.

4. As motorcyclists we often slow down by shifting down a through the gears, or merely rolling off the throttle, thereby not activating the brake light. Be aware that cars and trucks travelling behind you will not have any visual indication that you are slowing down,and as such my close whatever gap is between you and them. For your own safety it is recommended when doing this to lightly activate the brake pedal to ensure following motorists have a visual indication of the fact that you are slowing down. This also applies to group rides, to ensure the riders following you are aware that you are slowing down, especially when riding with a new group or a group that doesn’t often ride together.

5. Indicators on a motorcycle are usually are not self-canceling, as such some riders, (especially beginners) sometimes forget to turn them off after a turn or lane change. This could mislead motorists into thinking you are turning which could lead to them pulling into your path of travel when in fact you are planning on continuing straight. Make sure to cancel your indicators after use.

6. The stopping distance for motorcycles is nearly the same as for cars, but varied road surfaces such as gravel on the road could cause your stopping distance to become longer. Therefore keep a safe following distance between vehicles in front of you when the road surface becomes less than ideal.

The Pace

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Originally published in the November 1991 issue of Motorcyclist Magazine this article is still relevant today. It is used by many as a guide to fast but controlled street riding. I’ve modified it slightly to make it applicable to S.A. where we ride on the left hand side of the road.

Racing involves speed, concentration and commitment; the results of a mistake are usually catastrophic because there’s little room for error when riding at 100 percent. Street riding is less intense and further from the absolute limit, but because circumstances are less controlled, mistakes and over aggressiveness can be equally catastrophic. Plenty of roadracers have sworn off street riding. “Too dangerous, too many variables and too easy to get carried away with too much speed,” track specialists claim. Adrenaline-addled racers find themselves treating the street like the track, and not surprisingly, they get burned by the police, the laws of physics and the cold, harsh realities of an environment not groomed for ten-tenths riding. But as many of us know, a swift ride down a favorite road may be the finest way to spend a few free hours with a bike we love. And these few hours are best enjoyed riding at The Pace.

THE PACE
The Pace focuses on bike control and de-emphasizes outright speed. Full-throttle acceleration and last minute braking aren’t part of the program, effectively eliminating the two most common single-bike accident scenarios in sport riding. Cornering momentum is the name of the game, stressing strong, forceful inputs at the handlebar to place the bike correctly at the entrance of the turn and get it flicked in with little wasted time and distance. Since the throttle wasn’t slammed open at the exit of the last corner, the next corner doesn’t require much, if any, braking. It isn’t uncommon to ride with our group and not see a brake light flash all morning.

If the brakes are required, the front lever gets squeezed smoothly, quickly and with a good deal of force to set entrance speed in minimum time. Running in on the brakes is tantamount to running off the road, a confession that you’re pushing too hard and not getting your entrance speed set early enough because you stayed on the gas too long. Running The Pace decreases your reliance on the throttle and brakes, the two easiest controls to abuse, and hones your ability to judge cornering speed, which is the most thrilling aspect of performance street riding.

YOUR LANE IS YOUR LIMIT
Crossing the centerline at any time except during a passing maneuver is intolerable, another sign that you’re pushing too hard to keep up. Even when you have a clean line of sight through a right-hand kink, stay to the left of the centerline. Staying on the left side of the centerline is much more challenging than simply straightening every slight corner, and when the whole group is committed to this intelligent practice, the temptation to cheat is eliminated through peer pressure and logic. Though street riding shouldn’t be described in racing terms, you can think of your lane as the race track. Leaving your lane is tantamount to a crash.

Exact bike control has you using every inch of your lane if the circumstances permit it. In corners with a clear line of sight and no oncoming traffic, enter at the far outside of the corner, turn the bike relatively late in the corner to get a late apex at the far inside of your lane and accelerate out, just brushing the far outside of your lane as your bike stands up. Steer your bike forcefully but smoothly to minimize the transition time. Don’t hammer it down because the chassis will bobble slightly as it settles, possibly carrying you off line. Since you haven’t charged in on the brakes, you can get the throttle on early, before the apex, which balances and settles your bike for the drive out.

More often than not, circumstances do not permit the full use of your lane from yellow line to white line and back again. Blind corners, oncoming traffic and gravel on the road are a few criteria that dictate a more conservative approach, so leave yourself a three or four foot margin for error, especially at the right side of the lane where errant oncoming traffic could prove fatal. Simply narrow your entrance on a blind left-harder and move your apex into your lane three feet on blind right turns in order to stay free of unseen oncoming traffic hogging the centerline. Because you’re running at The Pace and not flat out, your controlled entrances offer additional time to deal with unexpected gravel or other debris in your lane; the outside wheel track is usually the cleanest through a dirty corner since a car weights its outside tires most, scrubbing more dirt off the pavement in the process, so aim for that line.

A GOOD LEADER, WILLING FOLLOWERS
The street is not a racing environment, and it takes humility, self assurance and self control to keep it that way. The leader sets the pace and monitors his mirrors for signs of raggedness in the ranks that follow, such as tucking in on straights, crossing over the yellow line and hanging off the motorcycle in the corners, If the leader pulls away, he simply slows his straight way speed slightly but continues to enjoy the corners, thus closing the ranks but missing none of the fun. The riding is spirited and quick in the corners. Anyone with a right arm can hammer down the straights; it’s proficiency in the corners that makes The Pace come alive.

Following distances are relatively lengthy, with the straightaways taken at more moderate speeds, providing the perfect opportunity to adjust the gaps. Keeping a good distance serves several purposes, besides being safer. Stone chips are minimized, and the police won’t suspect a race is in progress. The Pace’s style of not hanging off in corners also reduces the appearance of pushing too hard and adds a degree of maturity and sensibility in the eyes of the public and the law. There’s a definite challenge to cornering quickly while sitting sedately on your bike.

New rider indoctrination takes some time because The Pace develops very high cornering speeds and newcomers want to hammer the throttle on the exits to make up for what they lose at the entrances. Our group slows drastically when a new rider joins the ranks because our technique of moderate straightaway speed and no brakes can suck the unaware into a corner too fast, creating the most common single bike accident. With a new rider learning The Pace behind you, tap your brake lightly well before the turn to alert him and make sure he understands there’s no pressure to stay with the group.

There’s plenty of ongoing communication during The Pace. A foot off the peg indicates debris in the road, and all slowing or turning intentions are signaled in advance with the left hand and arm. Turn signals are used for direction changes and passing, with a wave of the left hand to thank the cars that move right and make it easy for motorcyclists to get past. Since you don’t have a death grip on the handlebar, your left hand is also free to wave to oncoming riders, a fading courtesy that we’d like to see return. If you’re getting the idea The Pace is a relaxing, noncompetitive way to ride with a group, you are right.

RELAX AND FLICK IT
I’d rather spend a Sunday in the mountains riding at The Pace than a Sunday at the racetrack, it’s that enjoyable. Countersteering is the name of the game; smooth, forceful steering input at the handlebar relayed to the tires’ contact patches through a rigid sport bike frame. Riding at The Pace is certainly what bike manufacturers had in mind when sport bikes evolved to the street.

But the machine isn’t the most important aspect of running The Pace because you can do it on anything capable of getting through a corner. Attitude is The Pace’s most important aspect: realizing the friend ahead of you isn’t a competitor, respecting his right to lead the group occasionally and giving him credit for his riding skills. You must have the maturity to limit your straightaway speeds to allow the group to stay in touch and the sense to realize that racetrack tactics such as late braking and full throttle runs to redline will alienate the public and police and possibly introduce you to the unforgiving laws of gravity. When the group arrives at the destination after running The Pace, no one feels outgunned or is left with the feeling he must prove himself on the return run. If you’ve got some thing to prove, get on a racetrack.

The racetrack measures your speed with a stop watch and direct competition, welcoming your aggression and gritty resolve to be the best. Performance street riding’s only yardstick is the amount of enjoyment gained, not lap times, finishing position or competitors beaten. The differences are huge but not always remembered by riders who haven’t discovered The Pace’s cornering pureness and group involvement. Hammer on the racetrack. Pace yourself on the street.

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